A Bigger Fish To Fry

Sydney Morning Herald

Saturday August 21, 2004

Steve Manfredi

This week we introduce a new approach to our popular cooking column by Steve Manfredi (above). Each week Manfredi will appear in a brief video, preparing a recipe and offering a few tips. Go our website - smh.com.au/stevemanfredi - to view the first one. As the weeks go by, readers will have access to a growing online "bank" of Manfredi's seasonal recipes. Our Interactive Cook will also answer a limited number of reader emails each week at smanfredi@smh.com.au

Whiting

Of the 13 species of whiting found in Australian waters, the sand whiting and red spot whiting are the most commonly available in our markets. Occasionally, we're lucky enough to find some King George whiting, regarded by many people as a contender for the title of Australia's best eating fish. I would certainly put it in my top

half dozen.

It has a silvery body, which is dusky yellow above the belly line, and irregular, oblique rows of small bronze or brown spots on the

back and upper sides. It is the largest and most sought after of all species of whiting. Its flesh is bright pearly white with a tight, fine-flaked texture and a delicate, subtle flavour.

When it comes to cooking, King George whiting is best prepared simply. Too many flavours can overwhelm.

Sand whiting, though perhaps not as prized, is nevertheless a fine eating fish. Japanese chefs prefer it to King George for sashimi because it has more flavour. In Marseilles, French cooks prepare it lightly floured, then pan-fried in olive oil and served with a red wine sauce.

Pan-frying in butter or extra virgin olive oil is recommended for whiting fillets and care should be taken when grilling or roasting that the flesh doesn't overcook and dry out.

What to look for

As with all fish, freshness is crucial. Whenever possible, choose whole whiting and only then ask your fishmonger to scale and fillet them. This way you can identify fish with clear full eyes, shiny scales and bright red gills (if ungutted). Sand whiting can be used as an all-round fish and can take heartier accompaniments, even a red wine sauce. The delicate King George whiting should be accompanied by more subtle flavours and served simply.

Whiting goes with

Butter; extra virgin olive oil; beer batter; bread crumbs; coriander; parsley; thyme; tarragon; fennel; olives; capers; chilli; ginger; garlic; wasabi; light soy sauce; salad leaves - especially the bitter-sweet ones such as radicchio, rocket and endive; tomato; cucumber; zucchini; celery heart; potatoes; spinach; bok choy; cabbage; pickled vegetables.

Pan-fried whiting fillets with olive and caper salsa

Choose either sand whiting or King George whiting. Allow 2 fillets per person. To make the salsa, cut 250g of ripe tomatoes into small dice. Finely chop 50g each of black and green pitted olives as well as 50g of capers. Put the lot in a bowl and add 100ml of extra virgin olive oil and some freshly ground pepper. Add salt if necessary. Wash some small salad leaves and dry them well. When ready to fry the fish, dress the leaves with some of the salsa. Heat two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a pan. When the oil starts to smoke, fry the fillets - about 30 seconds on each side. Season them with salt and serve with the salad and some more salsa on

the fish.

Whiting cooked in a paper bag (in cartoccio)

Allow one whole sand whiting per person - thoroughly scaled and gutted. You'll need a large piece of parchment paper or foil (double it over if using foil) to wrap the fish. The piece should be large enough that when you enclose the fish there is plenty of

air space at the top. Lay it flat

and put some extra virgin olive oil onto the sheet. Next, put a few thin slices of tomato and two or three stems of thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Lay the whiting on top, sprinkle liberally with chopped parsley and some chopped garlic. Pour a little more olive oil on the fish and season with salt and pepper. Seal the package by folding over the paper or foil very tightly at the top. Make

sure it is well sealed so the steam stays inside. Put the package on

a tray and into a preheated 250C oven for 15 minutes. When the package puffs up, you know the fish is cooked. Serve immediately, opening on a plate at the table so your guests can smell the wonderful aroma.

© 2004 Sydney Morning Herald

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